The Fiestas de las
Vendimias—Wine Harvest Festival—in and around Ensenada, takes place every
summer in August. Because I was writing an article about the festival during
the summer of 2000, Terry and I were invited to the kick-off celebration
at the Ensenada Cultural Center. We donned our party duds and headed north
to sample wines from all the wineries, along with appetizers from Ensenada’s
finest restaurants. The next night was the Street Fair at the Bodegas de
Santo Tomás. We brought Gayle, Chelsea, Derek and Gonzo to this
event with us. We were planning to meet Keith, from the Spanish language
school. Trouble was, he was on Mexican time and we were on camp time. The
kids got bored and as whiny as two-year-olds, so we left by 8:30—which
was about five minutes before Keith arrived.
On Monday night
we had the premier experience of Teenage Summer Camp—most likely because
we took a day off. We left the kids at home under Bucky and Russ’ supervision
and got a room in Ensenada with a view of the harbor. Our pila had been
on empty and we’d been waiting for the water truck for almost two days
by the time we left, so a hotel room with a hot shower was a serious treat.
However, it was nothing compared to the concert we experienced at the Monte
Xanic (pronounced MOHN-tay Shu-neek) Vineyard. It was held just after sunset,
right in the vineyard and it was performed by a troop of opera singers
with a full orchestra from UABC—the Autonomous University of Baja California.
I didn’t even know I liked opera until that concert. There were very few
Americans among this crowd of about 300 well-dressed Mexicans. 
The
setting was idyllic, outdoors on a hillside behind the winery, overlooking
a reservoir, the vineyards and gently rolling hills that faded away as
dusk turned to night. It was passionate, balmy, warm and intimate—a perfect
evening we wished would never end.
* * * *
The rolling hills and lowlands of the Guadalupe Valley, just northeast of Ensenada, and the Santo Tomás Valley to the southeast are covered in vineyards. The wineries in this area produce nearly 95% of Mexico’s wines.
The winemakers of the
Guadalupe Valley are as passionate about making great wine as any fussy
Frenchman from Bordeaux. In fact, the conditions here are remarkably similar
to those in southwestern France. With ideal marine and atmospheric conditions
and porous soil of primarily decomposed granite, these wines rival any
produced in California. Grapes thrive in the area’s coastal 
valleys
framed by rugged, rocky hills. They are tended to lovingly, picked by hand
and fermented with the utmost care, using techniques perfected over the
centuries. Give yourself a treat and plan a visit soon. These days they
produce an array of memorable wines, including Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots,
Cabernet Francs, Zinfandels, Petit Sirahs, Sauvignon Blancs, Semillons,
Chenin Blancs, Fumé Blancs, Blanc de Blancs and Chardonnays.
Winemaking in the Californias actually began in Baja. The Spanish padres planted the first grapes as they worked their way from southern Baja to San Francisco founding missions. The first cuttings arrived at Misión San Francisco Javier near Loreto from Europe in 1699. In 1791 the first vineyards were established at Misión Santo Tomás, in the fertile valley 30 miles southeast of Ensenada. Vineyards were planted at Misión Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe del Norte in Guadalupe Valley around 1934. Bodegas de Santo Tomás, the first official winery, was founded in 1888. It has produced wine consistently since then, and was the only major winery in Mexico until fairly recently.
Tours at the Baja wineries are relaxed, casual, intimate and informative. There are no crowds. You’re sure to learn far more about the art of wine making there than at any winery up north—and you’ll have more fun too. You’ll learn that whites are picked at night and reds very early in the morning—and why. You’ll learn about the importance of gravity (in lieu of pumps) in keeping the juice pure as it goes into fermentation. You’ll taste the wine right out of the barrels as it’s aging.
* * * *
When we visited the Guadalupe Valley, our first stop was the Adobe Guadalupe, a romantic bed and breakfast right in the middle of the valley. It’s not easy to find, so it’s advisable to get directions ahead of time. We knew what to look for, so we knew when we were close. The stark white of its buildings, accented by a red tile roof, stood out dramatically against the backdrop of rock-strewn brown hills and the brilliant green of the vineyards. Standing alone amidst the vines and marking the entrance to the inn was a water tank with a pair of angel wings hovering over it. Subtly but exquisitely painted in hues native to the valley, it gave me chills.
The Adobe has the spacious elegance of a modern-day Spanish hacienda. We strolled through a courtyard designed by a Persian architect who included 125 arches—so that cool Pacific breezes ricochet around inside, creating a natural kind of air conditioning. Hosts Tru and Don Miller, transplants from Newport Beach, began harvesting their own grapes at their winery in 2001, so visitors can now experience wine making up close and personal.
We hung out with Tru beside her pool one sultry August afternoon and listened to the story of how she came upon this place. “As a Dutch person, I’m usually matter of fact and not spiritual. But I was in Paris at the Notre Dame a few years ago, and happened upon a side altar of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Everyone loves Our Lady of Guadalupe—especially in Mexico. All of a sudden, I got this message: ‘You’re going to die in Mexico.’ I told my husband, and Don said, ‘I hope not right away.’ There was a chuckle in my head and the words came: ‘Not right away. But you will.’
“I’ve always been a wine-lover. At the time of this ‘visitation’ from the virgin, I was the only woman on the wine committee of the Pacific Club in Newport Beach, where we lived. Our sommelier at the club was René Chazottes—best sommelier in the country and fourth in the world. I told him this story and he urged me to go to Guadalupe Valley. I went. I found this piece of land. It felt right. I called my old Dutch mother and told her about it. She let it be known that she had some cash saved up and wanted to send it to me. Shortly thereafter, I got a manila envelope in the mail. It was $100,000 worth of Dutch gilders—in cash. To the penny, that’s what this land cost me.”
That one gave me more chills.
In addition to the
inn and winery, there’s a chapel and shrine dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe.
It’s adorned with Angel’s wings and vaqueros—Mexican cowboys—tip their
hats at the virgin as they ride by. Some leave little gifts, a few pesos
and candles behind. People have gotten married here.
After a Mexican breakfast of huevos
rancheros—ranchero-style eggs—in the morning, we started off to tour the
wineries. For the ease of navigation, we backtracked and began from west
to east, beginning just south of the third tollgate on the road from Tijuana
to Ensenada, where Highway 3, the road east to Tecate, begins.
The first winery we came to was Casa de Piedra, on the left hand side of the road at San Antonio de las Minas. It was established in 1999 by celebrated winemaker, Hugo de Acosta to produce an “author’s quality wine.” Apparently he succeeded, because the entire 2000 and 2001 harvests sold out—before they were even fermented. Well-known all over Mexico, these wines are a favorite with young professionals in Mexico City.
Practically across
the road is Viña de Liceaga, another young winery that produces
excellent Merlot, Merlot “Gran Reserva” and Cabernet Franc Blend.
Next stop: Mogor Badan, next door
to Liceaga to the east. It has been dubbed a “virtual winery” because all
their wines are produced at friends’ wineries with grapes purchased in
the Guadalupe and Santo Tomás Valleys. It’s known for its white
Chasselas, red Mogor Badan (Cabernet Sauvignon with different varietals
each year).
Heading east again on Highway 3, we ran into the town of Francisco Zarco, just past a long bridge. Turning left, we drove through. There weren’t any signs for the wineries, so it was mandatory to pay attention. The pavement ended and we were on a washboard dirt road. We passed the Russian museum, which depicts the story of the Russian immigrants who settled this valley in 1907. The sign for Monte Xanic popped up, alerting us to turn right. Five wine lovers, whose sole objective was to make world-class wines, founded this winery in 1988. Under guidance of gifted winemaker, Hans Backoff, they have succeeded. They make an array of excellent red and white wines. Our favorite was the Viña Cristel, a mixture of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes.
Chateau Camous is visible from Monte Xanic, to the west. It was founded in 1995. President of the Ensenada Winegrowers’ Association, Fernando Favela, and the winery’s Bordeaux-educated winemaker, Victor Torres-Alegre, met us at the front door and gave us a two hour guided tour. Their wines, under the careful supervision of renowned French wine expert, Michel Rolland, have won awards all over the world. Their Gran Vino Tinto, made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, has raked in the most honors. Camou also produces a dazzling Merlot, Zinfandel, Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, Clarete and Blanc de Blanc.
A little further west is Bodegas Valle de Guadalupe, owned by David Bibayoff, who uses a blend of traditional and modern techniques in his wine making.
Back on Highway 3 heading east, the next stop was Casa Pedro Domecq on the left side of the highway. Founded in 1973, this winery is famous throughout Mexico for making both wine and brandy, and is considered the marketing pioneer of Mexican wines.
Last stop on Highway 3 was Vinos L.A. Cetto, just past Domecq on the right side of the road. Founded by Angel Cetto from Italy, this winery offers tastings of wines, coolers, brandy and tequila. We, of course, bought a bottle of wine and had an early dinner—picnicking on the terrace overlooking the vineyards. L.A. Cetto doesn’t participate in the Fiestas de las Vendimias, but hosts their own festival in early September with wine tasting, grape stomping, dinner, a bull fight, dance show and fireworks.
The next day, we headed south into Ensenada to visit its wineries. The first we hit was Cavas Valmar, founded in 1983 by brothers Hector and Gontran Valentín, along with winemaker Fernando Martain. They produce an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc and their tasting room in Ensenada is located at Avenida Riveroll #1950 at Calle Ambar.
Bodegas de Santo Tomás is the area’s oldest winery. Founded in 1888, it has always been known for producing Mexico’s basic red and white table wines. In 1992 it launched an ambitious project to upgrade both its vineyards and its winemaking techniques, so it now offers some real world-class wines, including champagne. Their tasting room, restaurants and art galleries are located at Avenida Miramar #666, and are well worth a visit.
For information on this
year's Fiestas de Las Vendimias, please contact Blanca Acosta at the Winegrower’s
Association in Ensenada.at 011-52-646-178-2187 if calling from the U.S.
Monte Xanic Sunset Concert tickets can be purchased by calling 011-52-646-174-7055.
Tour packages are available through Baja California Tours at 800-336-5454.
Email: brac@telnor.net or fiestasvendimia@hotmail.com.
© 2002 Ann Hazard. No part of this article
may be reprinted without permission.
This story is featured in Ann's newest book,
Agave
Sunsets.
Portions of this article
appeared in the
Baja Tourist Guide, August 2000 and in the 2002
issue of Baja Traveler Magazine.
Photos courtesy of Ensenada Winegrowers Association and Terry Hauswirth.