In February of 1998 I had my first chance to spend a few days in Todos Santos, which is, according to Baja insiders, the hippest place on the entire peninsula. Tourists from nearby Los Cabos flock to Baja California's most acclaimed artist colony every day. They come in their rental cars to check out the spectacular beaches with their much-talked-about "secret surf spots," to eat lunch in one of its world-class restaurants, to see the "artists" and to visit the "Hotel California"---the one the Eagles supposedly sang about back in the '70s.

Todos Santos is located 45 miles northwest of Cabo San Lucas and 50 miles south of La Paz, on the Pacific coast of Baja. Founded in 1724, it pretty much crept along as a remote, inaccessible outpost until the late 1800's when its vast aquifer was discovered. Sugar cane farmers rushed in and it became a booming agricultural community overnight. Today, all kinds of tropical fruits and vegetables are grown in and around Todos Santos. Cattle ranching  flourishes. It's an oasis---a tropical paradise that doesn't have a single fancy gringo hotel. The most expensive rooms in town are found at the Todos Santos Inn, an exquisite bed and breakfast that's located in the heart of the historic district, within walking distance of all the galleries, shops and restaurants in town. There are three more modest hotels too, starting at about $20 a night.

Highway 19 runs from La Paz to Cabo and passes through Todos Santos. It was built in 1986---the year everything began to change. About that time, a pair of well-known artists from New Mexico and Italy, Charles Stewart and Ezio Columbo moved to town. This duo has played an integral part in perpetuating the gringo artist migration to the area. The permanent population of American and Canadian artsy types (read that painters, sculptors, poets, musicians, chefs, dancers and writers) currently numbers about 350. It fluctuates however, with much higher numbers of gringos during the cooler months.

 In addition to being an artist, Ezio Columbo is the Executive Chef at Cafe Santa Fe, a much-celebrated Italian restaurant he owns with his wife, Paula in town. They helped found the nine year-old Todos Santos Festival of  the Arts, which is held each year during the first week of February.  Using a combination of art, theater, dance and music, the festival involves the entire town. Nearly every business is transformed into a gallery, showcasing works of Mexican and American artists. Every night there is dancing, music and cultural revelry in the old theater at the plaza. "For that week," said Marc Spahr, owner of Caffe Todos Santos, "we really live up to our reputation as an artist colony!"

Why all the artists, you ask? I wondered the same thing myself the first time I was there, so I asked around. I picked up a copy of the Spirit of Todos Santos, the local paper. It absolutely oozed culture and creative  energy. Meetings where artists shared their lives and processes. Poetry readings. A monthly writer's series. Historical house tours. Events featuring  folkloric dancers and gourmet food prepared by local chefs.

Medicine Women offering physical and spiritual healing. Concerts, sing-along campfires, meditation, massage. Organic food baskets. Authentic Mexican home furnishings from Guadalajara and San Miguel de Allende.

Why Todos Santos? According to local painter and gallery owner, Michael Cope, it's because, "... the light has the same vortex energy as Santa Fe or the Bermuda Triangle." He goes on to say, "People talk about the muted colors of the desert. But when you've lived in it, and watched what the light creates, you begin to see in Technicolor."

Author Jeanne Cardoba claims it's the air, "which is infinitely lighter than the atmosphere in La Paz and seems to melt in your mouth like a fine Parisian pastry." She also maintains that the ground itself speaks in Todos Santos. And that time takes on an ethereal quality. "Life turning events," she says, "occur with the speed of intuition." Native Mexicans claim it's in la corazan de la gente---the heart of the people. Others say that the erotic whisper of its tropical breezes attracts those who are "more curious about
than afraid of nature's harsh challenges and sensual pleasures."

When I came back for my fourth visit, the first time I got to stay for longer than a few hours, I was determined to experience the place for myself. For me, that meant heading straight for the beach. My friend Kit was fiddling with the Land Cruiser, his head under the hood. He was mumbling, talking to himself mostly. I couldn't hear him over the pounding of the waves in front of me. The ocean called out to me. Without saying a word, I took off down the deserted beach in front of me. The air was 76 degrees. The ocean was about the same temperature. Perfect....

Trailing my toes in the surf and hiking my dress up to my knees, I chased the waves. I wandered, I danced, I cried, I chased pelicans, I sang and finally, I sat down and wrote poetry in the sand. The mountains behind me rose up like pale purple monoliths. The white-tipped turquoise water in front of me rushed out to claim me as its own child. I lost all track of time.

Later, I found Kit reading on the precipice of a six foot sand cliff, the kind El Nino left behind this winter when it sucked big chunks of our Pacific beaches out to sea. I jumped and slid down those sand cliffs until I was exhausted. It was as though someone had waved a magic wand over me. I was infused with a sparkling, laughing buoyancy---I was smiling from the inside out. Eventually, we got back in the car and bumped our way up the dirt road through the fields of tropical fruits and vegetables and palm groves towards the center of town.

We headed to the Cafe Todos Santos. My favorite funky local eatery, its front room houses an espresso and juice bar and a bakery. Each chair and table is a work of art, having been painted in funky, bright colors. The walls are covered with original works of art. Patrons sit inside or out on the sidewalk, or they cruise through the kitchen like we did and eat on the patio. A courtyard from a nineteenth century hacienda, it's sheltered from the blazing sun by a canopy of lush greenery and flowers.

After lunch we walked around the corner and visited with Janet Howey, the owner of Tecolote Libros. As usual, the store was packed. Then we drove a block to the Hotel California. As we walked into the lobby to check in, the Eagles song of the same name was playing on the sound system. (No, those Eagles-related rumors are untrue!) We got a room for $47 US, IVA included. It was huge, with an ocean view, three beds and the biggest shower stall I've ever seen. The bathroom and shower walls did not go all the way to the ceiling, but stopped about a foot short. Obviously, there were no mirrors on the ceilings and no pink Champagne on ice! But the view was to-die-for. Looking out over the rooftops and treetops towards the ocean, we watched as the sun slipped into the sea. We could see the church and plaza in the golden light and hear the ringing of the church bells, mingled with the chanting of evening mass.

 When you go to Todos Santos, which you must, go sit in the big plaza---the park just off  the main drag into town. (Do not, however, sit in the swing like I did, unless you are very young or very thin! I got a huge bruise on my hip from the metal bracket on the way-too-small seat of the swing! Instead, do some people watching from a park bench.) Wait until it gets dark and the hot dog carts come out. Actually, the signs on the carts read, "Perritos Calientes," or "Warm Puppies."  Kit and I conducted taste tests all up and down Baja and we both concurred that the very best warm puppies (and the cheapest too, at five pesos each) were in Todos Santos, at a cart right across from the Hotel California. What's a warm puppy? It's a spicy hot dog, wrapped in bacon and grilled to perfection, served in a fresh bun (no Bimbo bread here, thank you!) and slathered with Mexican white sauce, fresh tomatoes, grilled chiles and onions, mustard, catsup. Oh yes ... another one of Todos Santos' sensual treats.

For more information on Todos Santos and its artistic population, please visit TodosSantos-baja.com. Find out the latest happenings there, by clicking on the El Calendario link on the front page.
 

© 1998 Ann Hazard. No part of this article may be reprinted without permission.
This story is featured in Ann's newest book, Agave Sunsets.
Reprinted from Discover Baja Travel Club's Newsletter, July-August, 1998. Also published (in slightly different format) inThe Coast News, January 25, 2001 and in BAJA TRAVELER MAGAZINE, 2001 Issue.

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